monsoon

*Psst*… I’m going to tell you a secret.  Monsoon on 19th Ave. E. has the best dim sum in Seattle, and quite possibly on all of the West Coast.  Eric Banh is truly a master chef.  Together with his sister Sophie, the two of the them craft some of the most innovative “french colonial” vietnamese cuisine I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating.

It’s probably not even fair to compare the dim sum at Monsoon with anything else.  It’s really the platonic ideal of dim sum, far from the carts and the roar of the International District during weekend brunch.  Go first thing on a Saturday or Sunday morning and order the assorted dim sum — daikon cakes, lotus leaf wrapped sticky rice, steamed bbq pork buns, shrimp dumplings and pork shu mai.  You will be tempted to order more… but then you’d miss out on the rest of the menu which is equally stellar.  Specifically, the masterful bowl of oxtail pho with wagyu brisket and flank steak.  The broth is left to simmer for 16 hours prior to serving, which creates a ridiculously deep and soul satisfying flavor.

For the last few months of summer, they’ve also been serving $3 glasses of rosé over brunch which is simply madness considering the pedigree of their wine list.  In fact, on a roughly quarterly schedule, the Banhs host a multi-course prix-fixe wine dinner.  Earlier this Spring, I was thrilled to attend the “Rosé Roust!”, which featured some absolutely outstanding French rosés.  In particular, I’ve been hunting for this domaine de chateau du puligny-montrachet 2007 bourgogne pinot noir rosé ever since it crossed my lips.  That particular wine was paired with pan seared black cod & morning glory salad.  I can still taste that fish melting in my mouth.

Which brings me to my favorite dish on the menu at Monsoon, and one of the greatest in the City: the caramelized louisiana catfish claypot with fresh coconut juice and green onions.  Decided to drop by on a whim a couple of weeks ago, and was told the restaurant was completely booked for the night!  There were a couple of tables open on the patio however, and it was a lovely evening so I was all over that.  Tried the crispy imperial rolls with berkshire pork, shrimp and glass noodles for the first time.  These were served with fresh lettuce leaves and basil to wrap and dip in the accompanying sweet sauce.  I inevitably ordered the claypot catfish, with a side of jasmine rice to sop up all of the incredible sauce.  You really cannot miss this fish — served straight out of the hot claypot, it is tender and sweet and sticky with a constant low level spicy burn.  Was warned about the single hot pepper in my bowl, but ate it anyway.  Didn’t quite see God, but there was a brief out-of-body moment.  Finished with the famous spongy banana cake and crème fraîche.  It was actually surprisingly substantial and not nearly as sweet as I had feared.

Go now.  Go twice.  Rumors continue to circulate around the sale of the building Monsoon has resided in for the past decade, with condos and retail space slated to open after demolition.  (UPDATE: Hooray!  Looks like the deal fell through!).  Eric Banh has stated that he’d like to remain in Seattle, but with Monsoon East preparing to open soon in Bellevue, there’s no time like the present.  You won’t regret it.  Just don’t tell anyone else.